The fascinating 5th-to-12th-century frugal church of Panayia Kanakaria stands at the very western edge of Boltasli (Lythrangomi), reached via a street east from the main Kirpasa trunk route at Ziyamet (Leonarisso). At the moment it is locked – instead of a case of bolting the stable door after the horse has fled, but as much as necessary can be seen of the design from outside to persuade you of the building's merit. Nave and aisles symbolize an 11th-century revamping of the original 5th-century structure, of which only the apse (former home of the mosaics) remains. The domed narthex was built in a while afterwards, as the high, drummed central cupola followed in the 1700s. The thin but paved street beyond the village threads through the region of this earlier Turkish-Cypriot enclave before ending at Kaleburnu (Galinoporni), a notable semi-troglodytic village wedged between two hills. Both slopes and the nearby areas are riddled with rock-cut tombs and other ancient relics. Among the most striking of these are the colossal cliff-tomb at Derince (Vathylakkas), the free-standing one at Avtepe (Ayios Symeon) hamlet and the seaside, Bronze Age fortress at Nitovikla, 3km south by jeep track from Kuruova (Korovia). Just before Kaleburnu, another seaward track leads to Uskudar (Skoutari) beach, not totally magnificent but satisfactory for a dip. Dirt tracks head northwest to Yenierenkoy and east to Dipkarpaz from here; shown rather optimistically on virtually every map, they are actually only negotiable with a 4WD vehicle with high clearance, and even then at speeds hardly exceeding walking pace.