Diverging north (right) up Victoria Street (Salahi Sevket Sokagi) following the Dervish Pasha Mansion, you will arrive at the Arab Ahmet Mosque at the corner of the next main road intersection, set on the left in a flourishing cemetery. What seem at first look to be Roman columns in the tidy gardens are in fact high tombstones of several well-known pasas, the well white marble initially from Beirut. The mosque is a classic instance of 19th-century Ottoman, renovated in 1955, and the spot is good-looking more for its trees and cemetery than for the structure itself. Inside are the typical whitewashed walls with medallions next to the dome bearing the names in Arabic of Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman, Ali, Hussein and Hassan, the initial caliphs of Islam. The platform is, as so frequently, painted green, the colour of Islam, and beside it is the "mihrab", the prayer niche which specifies the way of Mecca, so that the faithful can adjust themselves properly for the duration of prayer. The tactless modern carpets cover up the tombstones of various Frankish knights, reused in the floor paving as expediently large slabs. The mosque guardian will drag back the carpets if you request to observe. If at this point you should need a break, you could do a lot worse than sit in the flawlessly tended garden yard and marvel at the lack of North Cyprus's otherwise ever-present litter.